As one of the founding fathers of denim – and with almost 130
years of workwear excellence under our rodeo belts – we have
a fair few standout pieces in our archive. But there is none
so famous as the Lee® Rider Jacket – the world’s first slim
cut denim jacket.
1925
Introduced in 1925, this first denim jacket, called the 91J,
was especially loved by early Railroad workers,
affectionately becoming known as Lee’s “Loco” jacket. With
it’s full-cut and single breast pocket, you can see how much
the style has evolved.
1935
– 1939
1934 saw the birth of the 101J Cowboy Jacket, and a year
later, the 101LJ, a blanket lined version, first entered the
market.
Already popular with blue collar workers and cowboys –
legendary Rodeo star Turk Greenough was a fan, but had his
girlfriend take the jacket in for a slimmer fit. Inspired by
this, the H.D. Lee Company set about designing a brand new
slim style of denim jacket with cowboys and rodeo riders
specifically in mind.
Introducing the Rider Jacket…
1948
Dubbed the “New Lee Rider Jacket” it was promoted on a first
come first served basis for members of the Rodeo Cowboy
Association and Cowboy Association of America.
In the advertisement in The Buckboard magazine, you can see
some of those iconic details: fitted and waist-length,
there’s vertical pleating on either side of the centre front
fastening, with the distinctive zig-zag top-stitching down
the button placket, and breast pockets on both sides.
By the autumn of 1948 the new jacket was being advertised in
rodeo and cowboy magazines with the strapline “Look at Slim
in his New Lee Rider Jacket!” with a blurb highlighting the
cowboy friendly style, “Pleated Pockets with Button-down
Flaps, 2-way Collar, Tailored Sleeves with ample shoulder
and elbow room, Adjustable Waistband, Corded Button Holes.
Patent Pending.”
Since then, very little has changed – because why mess with
perfection? – with those iconic details still there. This is
how to spot a Rider:
Lee
Rider Buttons
All Lee Cowboy Jackets made after their introduction in late
1948 have the Lee Rider or premium Lee 101 buttons.
Slanted
pockets
The twin chest pockets are slanted for easy access – almost
certainly for a pack of Marlboros.
Zig-Zag
Stitch
The signature of the new fitted 101J jacket design included
the zig-zag topstitching on the center front placket. Not
just there for decoration, it reinforces the denim.
Adjustable
Waistband
Lee’s Cowboy Jacket also featured an adjustable waist with a
short tab and two black cats’ eye buttons.
Cut to 2018 – with the revival of 90s fashion trends and
authenticity being the most sought-after value for brands
and individuals alike – and the Rider jacket has never felt
so relevant. A must have this season, and every season
after.
Lee
101LJ Cowboy Jacket
1949 – 1950
Lee
101LJ Storm Rider Jacket
1961 – 1965
Lee
Rider Jacket
2018
